Boris Bidjan Saberi’s Autumn Winter 2017 collection was the external representation of a forgotten man’s internal desires. The macho avatar outlined by Saberi was paradoxical to the current trend adopted by most on the runway. Despite the ubiquitous influence of gender fluidity, Saberi opted for a chiseled man in a rugged setting, one worthy on interest from the guild.
The Barcelona based, half German- half Persian designer better known as the alchemist of fabrics switched gears to a more functional, yet an eager representation of a folklore of the past, reimagined in present times. The collection boasted of lush knit tunics, multifunctional waist coats and shaggy yeti overcoats; the perfect context for a seasoned mountaineer.
A distinguishing element that reinforced the theme for the collection, were the lethal spiked boots- the kind one would be wise to stay clear of. A combination of tone on tone or colour contrasting straps were both, integrated into the garments and also worn so as to mimic a harness.
The knits were an interesting web of chunky knotting techniques coupled with high necks, or simply styled with heavy bundles of rope. Although Saberi is known for his endearingly creative knits, we can’t help but wonder how these might translate into something worn in an urban setting.
Jet black, white, graphite and jute dominate the colour palette. Blotches and stains reassured us that these were durable garments built for serving a utilitarian purpose. Parkas, baggy drop crotch pants and shorts, leggings and heavy leathering were offering more of the same engine revving, befitting a man on a mission.
Yeti tunics reminded us of the epic tales of Chewbacca or perhaps the aforementioned folklore of the Himalayas; right attire for the valiant few. The true masculine identity of the collection lived in the details of the garments. The crossover of an urban idiosyncrasies and the perils of mountaineering were a fascinating mix brought to life.
Overall, the sheer thrust of Saberi’s statement, was executed through a hard hitting theme of masculine prowess. Styling of the garments were at par with copious amount of layering, almost symbolic of a mans’ armour, ready for the urban winter battle. While some stand alone pieces were more desirable than others, some pieces triumphed on account for the high skill used in the painstaking construction of each piece.
By Pancham Hariharan
Photography by Nicolas Perez @metropolitan_nick