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12 Oct

Sport Sexy: Luis Buchinho Spring Summer 2017

In the depths underneath Palais de Tokyo is YOYO. One of Paris’ favourite nightclubs, it breaths arts; from the graffiti walls to the colossal columns and sculptures of the Palais de Tokyo that stand just above. However, during Fashion Week it is transformed time and time again by designers and it is here that Luis Buchinho’s SS17 collection came to life.

Pools of mirrored flooring mark out the runway casting a shimmery, rippling light across the dark walls and occasionally across the faces of those who have already taken their seats. The silver of the floor sets the tone for the collection, in which we see metallics and futurist shapes.
With an industrial sportswear influence, Buchinho’s collection celebrates the female form with strong lines and graphics. Asymmetry, crumpled and wrinkled fabrics in metallics leathers and stretch linens and double cotton knits are the key textiles in this collection. To the tune of a dissonant, slow-tempo version of Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit” Maria Clara, up-and-coming Portuguese model, begins the show making laps around the shimmering silver pools.

As for the concept, Buchinho wanted to create a collection that made the heat of summer a little easier to bear. With the intention of making the summer wardrobe both chic and adaptable for summer heat, he integrated the technical fabrics, purposefully pre-wrinkled. Encapsulating what ready-to-wear should be – actually ready to wear without needing to concern ourselves with the delicate nature of silks and other such fabrics. The collection mainly uses strong primary colours, and touches of nickel and gun metal and black. Graphic prints and a perfect contrast between flowing silhouettes and sharp, distinct lines, Buchinho’s collection is sexy, sporty and versatile.

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Anna Deutsch
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