It’s the fourth day of Menswear SS17 in Paris and Henrik Vibskov has taken over in The Westin hotel. “Salami Kitchen of The Non-Exi-Stent” is Vibskov’s latest show and while it might seem somewhat strange for the title of one’s collection to begin with a cold-cut, the focus of this collection is centred on the modern conflict between health trends and the consumption of meat. Vegetarianism and veganism have peaked in recent times and through his portrayal of charcuterie, and the butcher-players that become the installation in this season’s collection that we are forced to consider the role in which these meat products play in our lives.
The centre of the space has been taken over by an enormous quantity of salami, though it’s important to understand that these are not the cured meats we know but stuffed cloth tubes which, in themselves, are beautifully crafted. These woolen salamis multiply throughout the show as Henrik’s own white-apron-clad butcher team create more and more – perhaps a commentary on the ever continuing production of meat for consumption. As the spectators take their seats, the room is flooded with red light before the collection is unveiled.
Somewhere in between Japanese aesthetics and charcuterie, Vibskov’s collection is born. Kimono shapes, strong silhouettes and an almost martial arts inspiration with the cuts gives this season’s collection an unmistakable Japenese influence, which play with charcuterie inspired sweaters and jacquard. Embroidery and glorious prints are the highlights of this collection and it is the ways in which the designer has combined Asian iconography with his usual flair for unusual, powerful prints and outerwear that really make this collection stand out. It isn’t surprising that Vibskov would create a collection of works that draw from various influences. In his life he plays in many fields, from opening his own cafe in Copenhagen, to interior and furniture design, contributing to the design of the Royal Danish Horticultural Society?s Garden, to drumming for the band Trentemoller.
Didn’t believe us when we told you Henrik Vibskov, a stand out from this Menswear season, is also in Trentmoller? Find a video of him performing below: