The new â€œGalia Lahavâ€ SS 2017 couture collection, called â€œVictoria Affairâ€, reminds us of what
beauty and elegance of the dress in haute couture really means. Being inspired by
the fashion of Victorian England and French Belle Ã‰poque, the designer makes palpable the
world of bohemian salons and boudoirs, the world of Romantic poetry, of Gothic novels and
fairy tails with all their fays and elf. In this collection the traditions and innovations,
modesty and sensibility, sexuality and dignity are composed in a solid symphony.
â€žVictoria Affairâ€ is hand dyed in the gentle deep colors of warm gold and bronze, hot red,
various antique pinks and smokey purples as well as black and shades of black, what
reminds the palate of William Turnerâ€™s water colors. Constructing the collection from the
classical cuts of column, mermaid, pansil, tea gowns, skirts, bodies and shorts, the
couturier refers to the epoch by using the distinctive elements as collars, trains, corsets,
veils, medallions, vintage laces and authentic embroidery, from the 1890’s, made by
The collection expresses a splendor of the epoch, which we irretrievably lost, but the charm
of which we miss so dramatically in the times of blind commodity and utilitarian aesthetics.
After the years of permissiveness and the radical exposure of a human body, we are finally
reminded, that the clothing should be a promise of delight rather than enforcement to it.
At the time, fashion had a crucial impact on the fight for the right of saying over our own
bodies. Nudity was a mode of protest, a political manifest. But the role is played. We forgot,
that nudity was a tool, not a goal. By using the exquisite fabrics and the classical cuts, Galia
Lahav makes the clothing being an adornment of a body again. Nudity could be merely
guessed behind the foggy transparency of texture.
However the couturier frequently uses the noble desaturated colors, as dusty-rose or
dusty- lavender, appealing to the new technologies and contemporary materials makes the
collection breath with freshness of youth. Innovative silicon or 3D modulated ornaments
and jewels are harmoniously combined with antique elements and original Victorian floral
ornaments. Using such fabrics as silk, organza, tulle, chantilly laces creates an impression,
that the dresses are tailored of air. In the same time, denser velvet or guipure perfectly
sculpts a posture.
With its light melancholic spirit, Â«Victoria AffairÂ» evokes the times of a modest, exalted
beauty, when ladies and gentlemen were not afraid of being sensitive, when they believed
in love and miracles. Galia Lahav’s collection is an ode to an exquisiteness, created with a
delicate workmanship and devoted personal input. It is also an ode to a magnificence of a
body, full of genuine respect to a woman, her dignity and her unique, natural glory.
By Maxym Teteruk
Photo Courtesy of Galia Lahav and Totem Fashion