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19 Apr

Colorscope: Issey Miyake’s Kaleidoscope World for AW16/17

The minutes dissolve away into the enormous space that is Espace Ephemere, Jardin des Tuileries in Paris. One of the most greatly anticipated shows of the season is about to begin. The film is peeled away from the catwalk, the last spectators take their coveted positions and all eyes fall to the opening of the walkway (which could happily accommodate the width of a small aircraft!)

To the tune of a dissonant, electro Pachelbel’s Canon, the lights drop us into almost total darkness and by the time they come up again our first model is already a third of the way down the catwalk and sheer joy ensues.

M.A.C Cosmetics Nykhor Paul

M.A.C Cosmetics
Model: Nykhor Paul (opened and closed)

Beginning with primary colours, Creative Director/Designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae introduces us to the collection titled “Colorscope”.┬áThe garments seem to move with a mind of their own and it is only in viewing that we see the truly remarkable affect of the Steam Stretch technique. The hems bounce as the models file out in their choreography, their prism patterns mesmerizing as they criss-cross at the podium.

Geometry and technical pleats continue as the colour palette shifts into darker, and more earthy hues with forest greens and ochre yellows. As the show continues, the outfits have more of a concentric circle design: dresses with puffed shoulders and architectural jackets, spirals and pleats using a Baked Stretch technique. Though onlookers may not be aware of the unconventional processes of baking fabrics in ovens or Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s experimental approach, the result is hypnotic.

 

Author

Anna Deutsch
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